Hottest, Driest, and Lowest National Park
The National Park Service website captures Death Valley National Park perfectly:
“In this below-sea-level basin, steady drought and record summer heat make Death Valley a land of extremes. Yet, each extreme has a striking contrast. Towering peaks are frosted with winter snow. Rare rainstorms bring vast fields of wildflowers. Lush oases harbor tiny fish and refuge for wildlife and humans. Despite its morbid name, a great diversity of life thrives in Death Valley.”
Death Valley is not only home to incredible contrasts, but it also holds the title of the largest National Park in the contiguous United States. Additionally, it’s a designated Dark Sky Park, offering spectacular night skies thanks to minimal light pollution.
Into the Desert
As the towering buildings of Las Vegas faded behind us, we headed into the desert on a crisp December morning. The roads quickly became quieter, and the dramatic desert landscape began to take hold. After passing signs for Red Rock Canyon, we made our way toward Pahrump, a surprisingly expansive city that emerged from the higher elevation.
To reach the California state line more quickly, we took Bell Vista Road—a shortcut compared to the larger highways to the north and south.
Dante’s View
Soon after entering Death Valley National Park, we turned left toward Dante’s View. With no cell signal, road signs were our only guide—and they were enough. The route offered glimpses of the park’s mining past, especially remnants from the borax industry, once a major operation here.
When we reached the parking area, we were rewarded with a 360° panoramic view. The Badwater Basin, which looked like a massive lake below, was a planned stop for later. A short stroll provided breathtaking views of the valley flanked by rugged peaks. Even in the harsh environment, colorful bushes and blossoms were a refreshing surprise—springtime must be truly spectacular here.
20 Mule Team Canyon
While planning to head toward Zabriskie Point and Badwater Basin, we saw a sign for 20 Mule Team Canyon Road—a one-way dirt road. With an SUV and a little curiosity, we ventured in. Only later did we learn that scenes from Star Wars: Episode VI were filmed here!
Driving through this 2.5-mile loop was like navigating through a painted canyon. The layers of colors and dramatic formations gave us a close-up look at nature’s artistry before rejoining CA-190.
Zabriskie Point
Next stop: Zabriskie Point, named after Christian Zabriskie, a mining executive who oversaw operations before the area was preserved. A short walk led us to the overlook, where visitors explored unmarked trails tracing the edges of multi-colored peaks. The landscape, with its strange formations and rich hues, felt straight out of a sci-fi movie.
Devil’s Golf Course & Badwater Basin
After paying the entrance fee at the Furnace Creek Visitor Center, we detoured to the Devil’s Golf Course—a vast field of rough, spiky salt formations. It’s as intimidating as the name suggests. Walking here requires caution, as a fall could be painful!
We then headed to Badwater Basin, nearly 280 feet below sea level. The vast, flat salt pan appeared like water from Dante’s View. Though many people were walking about, the iconic salt polygons were more visible the farther we ventured in. As sunset approached, we aimed for a final highlight of the day.
Artist’s Palette at Sunset
The route to Artist’s Palette was magical. The winding one-way road through the canyons led us to a stunning spot where the setting sun illuminated hills of pinks, greens, and purples, while a full moon began its rise behind them. The entire area was hushed, as if people instinctively knew that loud voices might disturb the peace.
As the cold crept in with nightfall, we headed to the Ranch at Death Valley. Dinner at the Oasis Steakhouse surprised us with hearty vegetarian options, leaving us fully satisfied.
Sunrise Adventures
Although we hadn’t planned to, we woke up early and decided to catch the sunrise at Badwater Basin and Artist’s Palette. With no one else on the road, we felt like the only souls in the valley.
The sky behind the hills lit up with fiery orange and red, resembling a simmering volcano. At the basin, the salt polygons looked more defined in the morning light, undisturbed by footprints.
Back at Artist’s Palette, we hiked closer to the painted canyon walls. Multiple trails weave through the area, and after a satisfying loop, we returned to check out from the Ranch.
Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes
After a short rest, we met friends who had driven from Southern California. Following lunch, we made our way to the Mesquite Sand Dunes, stopping briefly at the outdoor museum of the Harmony Borax Works.
The dunes, nestled in a valley surrounded by hills, were soft and cool underfoot. Perfect for barefoot wandering—except for the occasional red ants and thorny bush remnants! The sunny day, blue skies, and ideal temperatures made for an idyllic afternoon.
Full Moon Finale at Zabriskie Point
On our way back to Las Vegas, we stopped again at Zabriskie Point for sunset. Though we missed the actual sunset, we were right on time to witness the full moon rising once more. The scene was so awe-inspiring that no photo could truly capture its magic.
Final Thoughts
We were overwhelmed by the raw, surreal beauty of Death Valley. Every light—from sunrise to moonrise—painted the land in new colors. None of our pictures could replicate the emotion and wonder of being there in person. It’s a place that must be felt to be believed.
Chronicles of a Wanderer 